| Construction |
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Step 1: Download
the
LFM hood layout diagram and
print it on normal paper. There are two 6 inch long scale markers
on the pdf file. One is vertical the other horizontal. Measure
the printout to be sure these scales are close to 6 inches
long. If they aren't, check your printer setting or try printing
to a different
printer.
This printout will
be the pattern you will use to cut the hood. |
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Step 2: Find
a heavy piece of tag board or dark colored hobby foam. The
hobby foam
can be found in most art and craft stores. Get a dark color
so that it blocks light well. A one foot square piece is
normally less than $1.
Lay the printed pattern
on top of the tag board or hobby foam. To save a few cuts,
you can align the bottom and right or left
edges of the pattern to the edge of your material. Cut through
the layout and tag or foam with a sharp hobby or utility
knife. Cut around all the edges of the pattern. You should be
left with a piece looking like the picture in step 3. |
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Step 3: Using
an awl, nail or sharp pencil, mark the location of the
two mounting
holes shown on the pattern. If you are using hobby foam you only
need to start the holes. If you are using tag board enlarge the
holes until they are about 1/8" in diameter. |
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Step 4: Score
the hood at the three dotted lines shown on the pattern. Be
sure to score
from the inside of the hood to keep it looking nice
on the outside.
The tag board can
be scored by lightly running your hobby knife over the tag.
This will cut partway though the tag
board making folding on the line easier.
The foam is best scored
using a ball point pen. Run the pen over the line a few times
until the foam is indented. Test your scored line
by folding the hood toward the side you scored.
The paper should hold
its fold well, the foam will not. We will take care of the
foam's folds later. |
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Step 5: Fold
the hood's front and sides so that the corners meet. If you
are using tag board, neatly
tape the corners with electrical or masking tape. The corners
should stay folded nice and straight. If you are using tag
you can skip ahead to "Step 10".
If you are using foam,
fold the front and sides down and hold them in place temporarily
with electrical tape placed on the outside.The hood will not
be sitting square or straight at this point, just work to get
the corners
to meet nicely. |
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Step 6: Using
a hot melt glue gun, run a bead of hot glue along the inside
of one
of the corner joints. It is only necessary to get the glue to
cover the surface of the seam. Hold the corner in the correct
position for a minute or two until the glue cools. When the glue
is cool the corner will hold its shape. |
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Step 7: Glue the second
corner just like the first.
At this point you
will have something that looks like this. The corners should
be nice
and square but the folds will be loose and rounded.
You can remove the
tape holding the corners. |
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Step 8: Place the top of the hood flat on a smooth work surface.
While holding the side of the hood in the correct position, run
a bead of hot glue down the crease. Hold this side while the glue
cools.
It is best to hold the fold a little bit tighter than the final
desired postion. |
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Step 9: Continue
to form the hood folds one at a time by gluing the other two
creases like you did in step
8.
When
you
are
done, you will have a hood that should hold its shape. |
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Step 10: Press
the two hood mounting holes onto the LFM mounting screws as
shown in the photo to the left. You can leave
the hood
loose
on
the
screw or use an additional nut to hold it in place.
The hood is designed
to sit about 1/8" above the surface the CBA robot is on. If
the hood is rubbing on
the surface, the hood can be trimmed to gain clearance. |
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Note the amount of
stray light the hood keeps from coming through the PC board
of the LFM. With the hood on the LFM it can operate
in almost any lighting conditions. |
If you have comments or questions about this project please
contact us at:
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